Day 18. Stony Plain - Post trip summary

There is a little feeling of emptiness now, like something has been taken from us. For two weeks, we have had bikes pretty much on our minds all of the time. Even when we took a days rest to see somewhere or do something, we were always glad to get back on the bikes and get moving. We saw some wonderful places, met some great folks and had to cope with some pretty testing experiences. All of this made the trip a true adventure. From the troubles with both bikes, to the ride from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson, nothing really spoiled the adventure.

We learned a lot from this trip. Firstly that we have to do this again - we both wish that could be now! However, back in the land of reality, work beckons as a means to take this sort of adventure. The maps have already been out, and fingers tracing possible routes back into the Yukon and Alaska. Roads like the Dempster Highway, Top of the World Highway all have a meaning now. We've read about these roads and spoken to people who have tackled them. I'd love to ride the Dempster Highway, the most northern highway in the country, running from Dawson City in the Yukon, to Inuvik in the North West Territories. One of the last true adventures left in North America, who knows - one day.

We learned a lot about preparation, or lack of it. We said before we left we must get to know our bikes better. So when we were sat at the side of the road with 'Sydders', we didn't even know how to check the oil level. No real problem really, out came the owners manual and we had the job done - however!!!! I watched a couple of Honda riders remove front and back wheels from their bikes in quick time to get new tyres. I knew the principal, but have never attempted it. Not that I needed to on this trip, but who knows in future! My aim this coming winter - get to know the workings of my bike a hell of a lot better and practice taking wheels on and off, changing light bulbs etc.

Another item which requires better planning was clothing. We have made a few trips on bikes in the past to reunions - the CCR - which are held annually at a different location each year. These trips generally consist of a day or two's ride to the event, a couple of local rides out then return home. Up to now always in the US, up to now, generally warm. The Yukon and Alaska in June presents a whole new set of problems if you are on a touring trip. We both took too many cotton T's - useless for wet or cold weather - and not enough 'wicking' underwear. Neither were our gloves capable of keeping hands warm and dry in extreme conditions. What feels right on a days ride out in a shower, is pretty bloody useless in a torrential days rain, up a mountain in British Columbia. Our bike suits though Gortex lined, needed assistance in extreme conditions. A quality rain suit was what was actually needed. We do have a lot of very good 'kit', we just need more of it. For Wendy, a heated under jacket is an absolute must, so we have a new shopping list that is growing!

Finally, better planning and appreciation of what we were actually trying to achieve. This was to be a biking trip, the emphasis on riding. When we sat back and analysed the trip, we had spent a lot of time off the bikes! Wendy had mentioned several times about riding north to Dawson City, but our schedule (hotel bookings etc) didn't allow for it. However, we spent over 2 days in Prince Rupert, 2 days on a ferry, then another 2 days in Skagway........... Six days of no riding! Poor planning. We should have and could have ridden more and seen more, including Dawson City and possibly the Top of The World Highway. What a tale that would have been!

For all the lessons, good and bad, we had a wonderful trip. I hope those of you who logged into the Blog have enjoyed reading my 'scribbles', as much as I've enjoyed writing them. I still have to finish the last couple of days and add photo's. Then I have to down load photo's onto the Blog 'slide show'. So don't turn your back on this blog just yet, still a little more to read and look at. So, thank you for joining us, I hope next time we venture out, we'll have your company once again. I'm considering helmet and bike video camera's next time, so a little less reading and more watching/listening.

With the trip behind us and reality setting in, I thought my last blog photo should emphasize just that. How much more back to normal can you get than cutting the grass? I swapped my riding ger for jeans and T shirt, swapped my Beemer for my lawn tractor, and set out to cut the grass. Well after all the rain it was more like a 'Savannah'......

For the last time then, nite nite from Wendy & I, and for all the bikers out there on their own adventures big and small - keep the black stuff down.

Day 17. Dawson Creek BC to Stony Plain AB (Home).

Next morning I was dreading going to start 'Gertie', I wanted to complete the trip on my bike, not the back of a bloody trailer! We packed up all our bags one last time, checked out of our last hotel and went into the car park. I was quite hesitant about putting the key in the bike, my mind was racing with the options. I turned the key, wound back the throttle, hit the start button - nothing, BUGGER!!!!! I tried a second time, still nothing. With my heart now sinking into my riding boots, I tried a 3rd time and she spluttered into life, not without a little help on the throttle from me.

Once started, I vowed not to switch her off until we got home. I left her running while we loaded, then led Wendy out of the car park. We both needed gas, neither of us could make it to Grande Prairie (GP), so we stopped in the little town of Pouce Coupe! I used a spare key to open the gas tank and refuel. There was only low Octane regular fuel available, so I only partially filled up. That done, on we rode to GP. Nothing to say here really. We were now out on the northern Prairie, no mountains to see and none for protection. The wind came whistling in from the east and battered us both on the bikes. Not so bad for Wend on 3 wheels, but I was getting hammered. At least it wasn't raining and the temperature was a lot warmer.

The road out of GP to Edmonton is all dual highway, and one I know very very well. The only benefit to this was that we could set a good pace! But as we saw earlier, the police were out in force, so we had to be careful. On the way into GP, an impatient woman driver dove in between Wendy and I, into a space that quite frankly wasn't there! She then hung on my tail for a while, but there was no real place to pass. Eventually she had to overtake - couldn't possibly sit behind another bike. So past me she shot, well WELL over the speed limit. I remember thinking, I hope the cops are about, she is bang out of order. Ahead of me I saw a white car pulled off the road. Idiot woman in car recognised it for what it was moments before the 'Blue & Reds' were lit!!!!!!!! It felt so good sailing past while she was about to get ticketed!!!

On we rode, pulling into another well known spot for me - Fox Creek. This because it was a Greyhound agency, and a regular stopping point for this route. We pulled on the gas station forecourt, again Wend needed fuel not me, so I left the bike running. As well as fuel, Wend was in much need of a break, she was getting very tired. Just as we had decided to make a move, 'Gertie' coughed and spluttered, then died! I had noticed the temp gauge rising, but I was surprised at this, given that it wasn't that warm out. Wendy had got a bit 'vocal' as the bike spluttered, "get on quickly, ride round, I'll catch you up"........... The it died. I however didn't have helmet, gloves etc on, plus stuff in my hands. Quite how I was to perform this riding miracle, I don't know. Anyway, fully booted and spurred, I stabbed at the started button, she spluttered into life and off I went. Next stop Sangudo south of Whitecourt for a last suck of fuel.

Once again, nothing of interest or note for this leg of the journey. It was still bloody windy, not pleasant and now we were both starting to tire as the end of the journey came into sight. We rode into and out of Whitecourt, another Greyhound agency stop, so a town I'm well familiar with. The wind was still blowing, but generally from behind us, so no real problem. Sangudo is a small town standing above a river valley, and once again, has a Greyhound agency. The small store just outside of town also has gas pumps, so we made our last refueling stop for 'Sydders'. I kept 'Gertie' running, no mishaps this time.

There was now a little over an hour left to ride and home. We came to the end of Highway 43, and joined the Yellowhead heading east. Our turning was only a few miles down the road, and I'm so glad it was. The traffic for this part of the world, was very heavy, every other vehicle an RV. I was quite happy to see Range Road 13 come up, and we left the Yellowhead for the 1 mile run to home. Two left turns later and we swung into the drive and up to the garage. That was it then, adventure over, we were home safe and sound. How we wanted to turn round and do it all over again................

Day 16. Fort Nelson BC to Dawson Creek BC

On to the penultimate day now, and it's all winding down far too quickly! The way I feel at the moment, I could stay on the bike for a lot longer yet. Well, that was right up until a couple of hours ago!! More of that later.

We'd had a good rest at Fort Nelson, and stayed in another lovely hotel. The nice big room was quickly littered with all of our soaking wet riding gear, scattered about to dry overnight. I thought I had been clever standing my boots up on end to drain in a drip tray, but all they did was suck up all the water which was draining out of my riding pants & jacket. Wendy was very smug about it, as she had suggested that this what would happen & placed her boots elsewhere. Don't you just hate it when they are right!!!! Again following another of her suggestions, I used the hair dryer & got gloves & boots dry enough to wear again. It wasn't raining, so I figured everything would dry out in the wind as we rode. Everything packed, I got a luggage cart and we headed down to the bikes. I'd managed to park them under the entrance awning, so they were dry and close at hand. Pretty well practiced now, the bikes were quickly loaded and we were heading off for gas.

Fueled up, me good for about 600 km which would just about see us into Dawson Creek, we headed out of town. The scenery was quite different now, the mountains and hills had given way to vast open land covered in endless forests. The road undulated, but for the most part was pretty straight. This looked like it could be a boring ride...... I had told Wendy the importance of constantly looking into the drainage ditches while we rode. For the benefit of folks in the UK who may not have seen these before, they are not little gutters at the side of the road. They are often 20 feet plus wide and 5 feet upward deep. After heavy winter snowfall, the melt has to go somewhere and these ditches are often running very deep in water. This is where you are likely to see all manner of wild life, who have no idea on rules of the road and safe crossing practices! At night I have often seen big Moose running in the ditch beside my coach. So, pretty important to keep an eye on what may be in there. As it was, it was me that spotted another Black Bear laid out in the ditch munching away. Very tempting to stop for a photo call, but I know better! So on we rode making good time, in weather that was improving and better still, temperatures that were climbing!

After a couple of hours or so on the road, we came across the Buckinghorse River crossing and the opportunity to get gas and breakfast. We pulled up at the pumps to see a notice attached to the pumps - 'Out of gas'. The holiday weekend had probably cleaned them out. However, someone stood outside the cafe building, pointed across the road to the other small gas station, and indicated they had gas. We decided to stop for breakfast, then head over the road to fill up. As we pulled up in front of the cafe, we spotted a large Greyhound sign on the building. I also noticed another BMW bike with GB number plates! Not a common sight in Canada! As we stood taking helmets and gloves off, a 'Hound' with pup trailer pulled in - wonder if I knew the driver? Turns out I did, quite well as it happens. His face was a picture when he looked over & saw me in biking gear and not in my GH grey uniform. At about the same time, a guy in BMW riding gear came out of the cafe, spotted Wendy's Spyder and said something like, "What is that". Obviously BRP are not big in the UK! As a major manufacturer of sleds, not too surprising really. Turns out, the chap was also called Brian, and was making a trip from northern Alaska, to South America.......... made our adventure seem like a trip to the end of our drive and back!! We got some breakfast and chatted with Brian for some time, it turns out he is doing his ride for charity and also has a Blog. Take a look folks, should be a fascinating journey: http://www.bri-journeyforhope.blogspot.com/ Please take a look, the guy has an amazing journey ahead of him, and he is using some video coverage to document the trip - well worth the look.

After the chat with Brian over breakfast, we headed across the road and Wendy filled up 'Sydders' and we rolled out onto the highway once again. The countryside was changing again and in the distance tall peaks were once again dotting the skyline. The hills were growing more distinctive out to the side of us, and we were once again climbing. Brian had got ahead of us, as he had refueled before we had got over the road, courtesy of 'Gertie' not starting once again! Here we were out in the middle of no where, and my damned BMW with all of it's sophisticated electronic wizardry would not fire up. After my problems at our night stop in Hazelton, Ron had loaned me a set of home made jumper cables for such eventualities. We positioned 'Sydders' as close as possible, only to find the cables were too short. Out of desperation, I tried starting 'Gertie' once more and reluctantly she fired - phewwww. So with that behind us, we were charging down the road toward Fort St John our next stop. Although Dawson Creek our night stop was only about another 100km away, 'Sydders' just doesn't have the range, so stop we must.

Not too far down the road from Buckinghorse River, was the Sikani Chief river and the first of the 'big hills', quickly followed by Pink Mountain. Wendy had been anxious out the big hills - not so much the going up as the coming down. Because the riding position on the Spyder is like a sports bike, you tend to lean more on your hands, especially going down hill. I had suggested she shift her weight through her 'butt' into the saddle and take weight off her wrists. It seemed to work and she had no trouble with either of these big hills. In fairness, I knew about them from a couple of trips up and down whilst training with Greyhound. It is a little different driving a standard (manual) shift 45' coach up and down these hills, than it is riding a motorcycle - power to weight and all that crap! Anyway, safely over and down both of these big hills, we forged on to Fort St John. Along the way we passed a gas station and noticed Brian parked up. I looked over my shoulder trying to see if he was ok, then we powered on.

First indications of arriving back in civilisation was the huge increase in traffic. It was a holiday weekend and I'm sure many folks would have tagged in Friday as an extra day to give them selves a nice long weekend. The roads were packed. We pulled into the first gas station to come into view. Wendy headed for the pumps, and I moved out of the way, not needing any fuel. Not long after our arrival, Brian turned up on his BWW GS650. Once he had refueled and moved his bike off the pumps, he came over. 'You two are moving aren't you"? was his opening comment. Couldn't deny it, but I'm not going public on how quickly we were going...... Again, the three of us sat and chatted, Brian asked where we were staying and suggested he may pop round for a beer with us that evening. As he was heading in a different direction from Dawson, it seemed a great idea.

After our little break, it was back on the road for the last leg of the day, a short run to Dawson Creek and another big hill - Taylor Hill. Again, I am more familiar with driving a bus up and down this one that riding a bike. However, I knew there were a few 'juicy' bends going up the hill so I was looking forward to a little 'sport'. As we crossed the river bridge, I said to Wend that I'd see her at the top, as I was going to have some fun! It appears that my comment was taken as something of a challenge to hers and 'Sydders' integrity! Half way up Taylor whilst cranking 'Gertie' over to get round a lumbering truck, I looked in my mirrors and to my absolute surprise, there was Wend, not that far behind! I had to laugh, she had come a long way in the two weeks we'd been on the road, she was now a damned fine little 'pilot', handling the Spyder very well indeed. At the top of the Taylor, we headed on into Dawson Creek, which happens to be mile post 0 for the Alaska Highway. We thought this would be a great final photo session for the trip. We headed off the main highway and found the Mile Post in the middle of town. parked up and went to take photo's.

The mile post sits on a plinth in the middle of a cross road controlled by traffic lights, so not too accessible. We started by taking photo's from the roadside, with the mile post as a back drop. Ok, but not what we really wanted. Then a passing motorist stopped and shouted out, "most folks go onto the milepost"............. That was enough for me, I picked a gap in the traffic and ran into the middle of the crossroad! Up on the plinth, Wendy took photo's. Then a passing pedestrian offered to take our photo, so Wendy dodged the traffic and joined me at the milepost. We even have a photo of us both running back to the safety of the curb! We both agreed these would be perfect photo's for the blog. All done, we headed back to the bikes and the last mile or two to the hotel and the promise of a nice meal for our last night on the road. Then the world turned to crap!

As those of you who have followed this blog will know, I'd been having intermittent starting problems with 'Gertie' from before we departed on our trip. I'd been assured that the 'computer' couldn't find anything - well that's ok then isn't it!!!!! The bike would not start. It turned over, but no hint of firing. I even tried bump starting down a side street which had a slight slope - nothing. Wendy rode round the corner to join me, and it became apparent that I wasn't going anywhere soon, so off came jackets and helmets to cool down. I thought if we left the bike for a while, it may start - it had in the past. Not this time, and now there was real danger that I'd flatten the battery. Once again Ron's jump leads came out, we jammed the bikes next to each other, taking off one of 'Sydders' panniers. No matter how long we tried - nothing. So here we were probably a mile, mile and half from the hotel with a dead bike. Fortunately we have membership with a motoring organisation, so I called them for recovery to the hotel. Our wait wasn't very long & we were soon outside the Best Western Dawson Creek. A pretty ignominious way for a BMW to travel, and we have the photo's to prove it - in case BMW Motorad Canada are interested!!!!!!!

We decided there wasn't much else we could do for the day and we both needed showers and a nice meal, so we tried to put the problems with the bike behind us. I had one more card to play in the morning if the problem continued, I have 2 years of BMW road side assistance which includes recovery. I'd call them and suggest they come and remove the bike from the hotel car park and deposit it at the nearest dealer. Which as it happens, is in Edmonton where I bought the bike! Anyway, as I said, we tried to put those thoughts behind us and get showered and changed for dinner. Whilst doing so Brian called us to say he was downstairs and would see us in Tony Roma's (chain steak bar famed for it's ribs). We knew Brian had already been having a rough time on his trip, and had just discovered he's lost his cell phone............ My heart went out to the guy and I asked Wend if we couldn't stand the poor guy dinner - of course we could. So, we all met up in the restaurant and had a very pleasant evening. Brian got to try proper ribs, not the poor imitation found in the UK, and thoroughly enjoyed them. We sat gassing for ages, and eventually decided to call it a night. We exchanged email and Blog addresses, and parted company. Good luck Brian, we'll be thinking of you & following your Blog. Time for bed and try not to think too much about the problems with 'Gertie'..........

Day 15. Watson Lake YK to Fort Nelson BC

Now from the warmth and comfort of a nice hotel room, the day doesn't seem to have been that bad. Ohh yes it does............. No mechanical problems, no problems with us, just the weather, and the weather, oh and more bloody weather. It started raining last night in Watson Lake after we had returned to the 'Nice Motel', and we were assured from 'them that were in the know', that is what the forecast was for the following few days. Deep joy! So no surprise then when we woke this morning to discover it was raining. Not too hard, but rain none the less. The motel has no breakfast facilities, and Watson Lake seemed pretty devoid of any possibilities. I suggested to Wend that try 'bubba' once again, turns out he wasn't on duty. Probably his collage day............. I was fast running out of patience to bother with breakfast. Both bikes needed gas, and we wanted to take some photo's at the signpost forest before departing the glories of Watson Lake.

The signpost forest is an unusual place. It is probably the worlds largest collection of illegally obtained town signs, and now mimicked the world over. Started in 1942 by a homesick GI, Carl K Lindley of Danville IL. Carl was a member of Company D, 341 Engineers, working on the Alaska Highway. He erected a sign here pointing the way and stating the milage to his home town. Others followed his lead, and are still doing so to this day. On 20 July 1990, Olen & Anita Walker of Bryan, Ohio placed the 10,000th sign. In 2009, there were over 67,000 signs on display. The town still asks visitors to bring their home town sign. In 1992, Carl K Lindley and his wife visited the site, 50 years after his first post was erected. When we visited it was raining and we were about to get on our way, so we didn't spend a lot of time here. However, it would be fun to return with a home town sign one day. Trouble is, which home town would it be?????

We had read in a tourist brochure, that the Alaska Highway from Watson Lake to Fort Nelson, was probably the most beautiful of the whole highway. Shame then that it was raining and preventing us from making a few stops along the way. The road snaked through the cloud covered mountains, perfect biking country. Wendy remarked this evening that I have a different way of approaching twisty roads. She told me that where most riders appeared to slow, or approach the corners/bends with a little caution, I increased my speed! Don't know what she is talking about, 'Beemers' are made to lay over into bends. Unlike Harleys which take them much more cautiously - in the back of a truck............ Anyway, the roads were lovely, and at the beginning, had very wide cut edges. That is to say the bush was cut back about 50' plus from the edge of the road. The reason for this becomes evident as you ride down the road. Even more so when you learn the area is known as the 'Serengeti of the North'. We saw 3 bears, including a sow & her cub by the road side, and several woodland Bison. One group had 3 males - big buggers at that! The only thing to dampen our spirits, was the persistent rain, which at times was quite hard.

The planned leg today, was to be about 510km/317miles. I refuelled in Watson Lake and that would see me through the entire leg. 'Sydders' on the other had, only has a fairly small tank - not that size is an issue you understand - and requires more frequent stops. I had planned to take breaks every hour and half so Wendy could get fuel and we could stretch our legs. At the first stop, we were both getting pretty wet, and Wendy was quite cold. She filled 'Sydders' and we both went inside for a hot cup of coffee and a 'hearty' breakfast. While we did so, we met another couple from Toronto on their trike. They had also pulled in for fuel and a warm up. Fed, fuelled and warmed, we were back on the bikes and on our way.

After a while where we had been following a beautiful river valley, we crossed a bridge, left the river behind us and started to climb. I noticed in the mountains above us, the cloud covered tops were still covered in snow and ice. What perturbed me more, was that we were getting ever closer to the snow line which at one point seemed very high above us. Now through the teeming rain, there were occasions when we were almost at the same altitude as the snow. I took a glance at the OAT gauge on 'Gerties' travel computer and was horrified to see we were down at 4'C/39'F. I was starting to get a little cold now, so I knew Wend would be bloody frozen! A hotel/lodge came into sight, and I dropped into the car park. We parked up the bikes and were discussing the options when the couple from Toronto also arrived at the Lodge on their Harley trike. We were all soaked - this was not fun any more, it was survival - I kid you not! Other people were arriving and due to the weather, elected to stay - as did our companions heading to Toronto. We also bumped into another Harley couple, who we had met on the way to Prince Rupert.

Wendy and I discussed the options, including the possibility of staying - it was very tempting I must say. However, we were already 2 days behind schedule and further delay was not really an option. If we did stay, we'd have to 'crank out' about 650/700km tomorrow!! Instead, we brought in some bags from the bikes, put on some dry clothing, got back into our wet riding jackets and headed back into the pissing rain. Now before everyone jumps on my back as the heartless bastard who pushed Wendy back into the cold, I did offer to stay if that is what she wanted to do. I also said that her safety was of paramount importance, and if at any time she wanted to stop and overnight, I would have no objections. I have a much greater tolerance for the cold, and I was acutely aware that Wendy was suffering with the cold and wet - we both were. So, under those terms, we elected to push on. I think the couple from Toronto thought we were mad, especially after one biker who arrived at the Lodge from the south, said he had encountered snow at the top of the pass, and that was a good two hours away.....................

On we went and the scenery was really beautiful. Well let me qualify that statement - it would have been if we could have seen it all and without the rain. As it was, we followed the valley getting ever higher with some remarkable views of a tumbling ferocious river out to our right. We arrived at the much vaunted 'Muncho Lake', once again, this would have been idilic on any other day - a dry day that is! The road beside the lake hung to the lake shore and twisted and turned all the way down the lake. Still we were not at the highest point which was at Summit Lake. By the time we arrived at this picturesque lake, we were at about 3.5'C and pretty well soaked. At least we could now look forward to a decent, and hopefully the temp would start to rise again. We had spotted a couple of potential refuelling spots for Wendy & 'Sydders', but each time we arrived the rest stop was either closed, or as with the last one, out of gas! We later learned that as this was Canada Day and lots of folks heading home for the weekend, they'd probably cleaned out these small service stations. Our only option - press on.

Now out of the mountains, the road improved and was a lot straighter - we could get the 'hammer down'. Well, certainly Wendy thought that as when I checked in my mirror, she and 'Sydders' were practically getting onto my luggage rack! I had been concerned about fuel conservation, Wendy more concerned about 'getting there'! By now we had been riding in appalling conditions for a little over two hours and I wondered if Wendy would make it all the way to Fort Nelson. For the last 80 or so 'klicks', we held our breath to see how far 'Sydders' could string out a tank of gas. As we arrived in Fort Nelson the low level light came on - perfect timing. We found the hotel pretty easily - well, Wendy did. She called me on the radio and said, "I think that's the Woodlands to your right". The give away being the 'kin great' hotel sign! This quite new four story hotel, has a large canopy at the front entrance, which is pretty much where we dumped the bikes, and got out of the saddled for the first time in a little over 3 hours. With the extreme cold and being soaking wet, Wendy immediately cramped up, and had to be helped of off 'Sydders'. Inside the hotel foyer, we both started to uncontrollably shake with the cold and wet. We looked a really sorry sight! As quickly as we could, we stripped bags from the bikes, checked in and fled to our room on the 4th floor. There we discarded wet cloths all over the room in an attempt to dry them overnight. Even our passports and wallet/purse were not immune from the soaking.

Once again warm and dry, we headed down to the restaurant for dinner. It being Canada Day, most folks are with their families, so it was pretty empty. However, the food was great and they served AAA Alberta beef! We had a great dinner, washed down with a passable BC wine, a couple of 'special' coffee's, then into the bar for a nightcap. I think we had earned ever last morsel of food and every 'splash' of booze'. Once my latest scribblings have been published, it's time for a nice comfy bed and hope all of our biking gear is dry by the morning. Just two more days riding to go, one more night on the road. All being well, we'll be in Dawson Creek tomorrow, and I will be back on well trodden roads - courtesy of Greyhound. So for tonight, nite nite all, talk to you again tomorrow.