Day 6 – CCR Day 2

Day 2 of CCR and we elected for a quiet start to the day with a leisurely breakfast in the hotel.  The dining room is open plan and sits adjacent to the lobby area and there are always people wandering by.  As there were lots of folks from CCR in town, we would inevitably see old friends while we sat and ate.

With breakfast done, we headed back to the room for a while, then I went to a presentation on of road riding, put on by a local company ‘Happy Trails’: http://www.happy-trail.com/.  Happy Trails are also a vendor at CCR, but their market is really aimed at the adventure rider, rather than luxury touring.  However, as there are a growing number of GS riders at CCR – me included – the organisers thought it would be a nice feature to include.  Following the presentation, we went into the hills for a guided off road ride.  Our guide Ed Hiatt, not only works for ‘Happy Trails’, but he has also founded a local club for off road riding and has ridden extensively in the state.  Eight of us gathered at the front of the hotel and after a briefing by Ed, he led us out onto the highway.

Me at 'Placerville'.

Clear of town, we headed north up Route 21, north towards Idaho City.  Before we got that far, we turned left off the ‘pavement’ and headed for the dirt roads.  Although Ed had described them as ‘dirt’, they were pretty much what I was used to in Canada both on site where I work and many back roads – compacted rock chippings.  As the conditions were very dry, the bikes kicked up clouds of dust.  Although the surface was not too challenging for the big GS, the dirt roads followed the contours of the valley, so lots of twists and turns, climbs and drops, very sharp corners with deep fine dust for tyres to slip on.  As we rode, we got strung out along the thickly wooded valley.  Ed had told us the only rule we had to obey was look after the guy behind you.  When we came to a track junction, we had to wait for the bike following to see us, before we rode on.  Other than that, we pretty much rode our own ride, which was great fun.  After what seemed like an age being bounced along bon jarring tracks, we arrived in the tiny town of ‘Placerville’.  Here we had chance to climb off the bikes, shake of some of the dust and cool down for a while.

Back on the bikes, Ed led us along more bone jarring trail, more dust being kicked up so as to make the guy in front disappear – and we call this fun folk!  It actually was great fun and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.  I tried the usual off road riding position – standing up.  Unfortunately for me, my bike is not set up for someone 6’ 4” and I spent my time ‘standing’, either stooped over the bars or knees flexed so as to have a straight back.  To ride like this I will need risers on my handlebars and maybe drop my foot pegs down an inch or so.  For all that, I enjoyed the sensation of riding out in the woods on dirt roads.  As I was starting to inhale more dust than I could keep out, we emerged back onto the ‘pavement’ and headed for a gas station.  It was quite amusing seeing all the ‘big bikes’, mostly BMW GS’s sitting to one side, while Ed refuelled his much smaller KTM.

Refuelled, Ed assumed the lead again and we all fell in behind him back on the pavement, heading south again for Boise.  Before we set of, Ed had warned us that this stretch of road was challenging, even more so ridden at a ‘spirited pace’ within a ‘pack’.  I’m not a bad, but I found this stretch of road very testing.  We were riding a continuous switch back, which went of for about twenty miles or more.  Many of the bends were quite generous and required no more than a quick change down, get the right out to in line and pour on the power at the apex.  It almost became hypnotic following the guys ahead, trying to watch my own line, but being distracted by their brake lights. 

For most of the leg I got away with it, but once or twice I had to hang on, throw the bike further over and wind on the power.  On one occasion, I even scraped my foot peg and the side of my boot!  When you realise quite how far off the ground the pegs are on a GS, you quickly realise how far over I was leaning.  On one right hand bend, I got it so hopelessly wrong, I ended up right over on the wrong side of the road.  All I could do was hang on, hope and pray no one was coming the other way, while shouting one word into my helmet visor, “f*****************k”……………..!  After that, I paid a little more attention to the speed signs at the corners.  A sign reading 45mph, meant drop down one, and chuck it in there at 55mph.  One saying 35mph, meant change and brake but you could still get away with 45mph.  However, one reading 25mph, meant just that so best get your shit together Blackwell!!

After what seemed like hours but was in fact less than an hour, we arrived in Idaho City.  Now the name City is something of a misnomer, as it looked like a small town to me.  All the same, it seemed to signal the end of the ‘buttock clenching’ switch back roads and more ‘rideable twisties’.  At this juncture, Ed led the group to a diner, famed for it’s pie.  I decided that as the afternoon was wearing on and we had an evening engagement to get to, I would ride on.  I thanked Ed for a wonderful experience and headed for Boise.  At that point, another of the group decided to join me and he led us back to the hotel about 30 miles away. 

Now Bob is a very skilled and experienced rider as I was to see at first hand.  It turned out that speed limits in the mountains are for wimps and other traffic, including other bikes MUST be passed!  At one point a bike probably from the CCR group, went past us as we slowed for a couple of trucks ahead of us making right turns.  This was obviously not acceptable to Bob and we tore after the miscreant!  In no time, we found a suitable (or not, who cares) passing spot and tore past the couple on the LT (BMW K1200LT).  Free of traffic we kept near the speed limit, plus or minus 20/25mph!  As we sped on toward Boise, another couple of targets – sorry bikers – came within our range, Harley guys!  We had to stay behind them due to a bridge repair, but as soon as we were able, Bob took off like a scalded cat – of course I had to follow.  Clear of the Harleys, he slowed to a more reasonable pace, which allowed the ear shattering Harleys to close up again.  Then we hit the twisties again!  Game set and match to BMW, we never saw the two Harleys again, wooooohoooooo!  Childish I know, but it felt bloody good all the same!

Back in the safety of the hotel car park, I parked up ‘Gertie’.  Poor bike, never knew what had hit it.  She had been shaken to bits over dirt roads, thrown into bends a road racer would have been proud of and seen off every piece of road traffic between Idaho City and Boise.  Bloody great!  As I stepped off the bike, Wendy came over clutching a bag containing ‘purchased goods’.  Mmmmmmm, did not compute!  When I left, she was going to have a quiet afternoon by the pool in the sunshine, so what the hell was this shopping!  Turns out when she got to the pool, some delightful child had crapped in it!  As she arrived, ‘Dad’ of said child rushed by with soggy towel saying he had ‘caught it all’, by which she was later to discover meant the ‘floater’.  He headed to the hotel staff, who immediately closed of the pool while they heaped loads of crap killing chemicals into the water.  With nothing better to do, she headed into town to do some shopping with another couple of girls, one of whom lives in – Stony Plain AB!  Would you bloody well believe it?  Wendy lies down at the pool next to someone who she has never met in her life, but who is almost a neighbour!

Anyway, she is explaining all of this to me as we head for the room and I have to take a rapid shower.  We were going to a Cutting Horse display a few miles away, which had been laid on for the ‘Ride for Joy’ charity that we were supporting at the CCR.  I was ready in double quick time and we headed out to the bike again for the 20 min ride to the event.  Wendy was always a great passenger on the LT, but since doing most of her riding on Sydders, she is a dreadful pillion passenger!  Almost all the way there I could feel her taking a hand hold or changing her hand hold on my jacket.  The GS doesn’t have the luxury of a back rest, so that made her anxious about my acceleration and braking.  In the end, we arrived in tact with a bunch of other bikers.

Cutting Horse Display

I knew very basically what ‘cutting horses’ did, but have never seen a demonstration of the skill these riders and horses possess.  Once the cut has been made, it is really about the horse than rider, but very very skilful to watch.  Basically we were inside a huge indoor arena, half of which was turned into a smaller performing arena.  Around two sides of which, tables and chairs were laid out on stepped platforms so we could view the ‘cutting’, whilst having dinner’.  Wendy and I elected to eat in the cafeteria, then join our friends out on the seated area.

In the arena, was a small herd of 20 or so young bulls/steers.  The object is for the cutting horse & rider, to segregate one animal from the herd and not let it return.  To help him, the ‘cutter’ has three other riders to help, though just one rider carries out the cut and keeps the steer away from the herd.  Once the steer is cut from the herd, the rider keeps eye contact with the steer, but it looked like it was the horse who reacted to the steers movement, turning with lightning like speed left or right as the steer turned.  We watched a complete set as all of the riders took their turn to cut a steer, then decided to head back to the hotel.  It had been a fascinating skill to watch, but really it is all about the riding, not the watching.

Back at the room, time for a coffee and relax a little before bed and the end of Day 2 at CCR.  Nite nite then fan and once again to all out brothers and sisters on two wheels, keep the black stuff down. 

Day 5 – CCR Day 1

So here we are at last, finally at Boise ID and CCR 2011.  A years worth of waiting and planning behind us, still with square butt’s from four days in the saddle, but here at last.  The room is a nice comfortable size as I said in an earlier Blog, but we didn’t have the hang of the A/C, so it was a pretty warm night.  For all that, it was nice not to have to think about getting back into bike gear for another long hot day on the road.  However, ‘Gertie’ was booked in for an oil change and I had a test ride booked on the new K1600GTL!

We passed on breakfast, quite unusual for me, but we had slept in a little and our appointment time was 9am.  We actually arrived a bit early and had one minor navigation error!  Wendy saved the day by stopping a passing guy in his truck and asked where Big Twin BMW was located – we were just one street out.  Within a couple of minutes we had located the dealer, parked the bikes and I was clambering out of heavy riding jacket.  The guys at Big Twin were very helpful and the service manager recognised Wendy from the orders she had placed and booking in ‘Gerties’ service.  I wheeled the bike down to the service area and left it with them.  Then we went to talk to Kelly in sales and sort out the demo ride.  It was all booked in and we were expected, the big 1600cc tourer had just been wheeled out ready for us.  Kelly took a copy of my license and we moved outside for a quick ‘famil’ of the new luxury touring machine.  I had watched and waited as it’s predecessor the K1200LT went out of production in expectation of the new bike.  The K1600 was launched amidst lots of publicity and looked a beautiful machine.  I had actually managed to take a look around one at our local dealer in Edmonton, but now I was going to try her out.  This bike came fully loaded and there was way to much to take on one quick run through, the only answer was to ride it.

The first thing that I noticed was how very low I sat.  The bike comes with a couple of seat height options and all the regular height options were on sold bikes.  These machines were moving off the showroom floors as fast as they could get them in.  Because the saddle was a mite low, it restricted my foot movement on the brake and gear levers, otherwise it felt wonderful.  The only real warning I got from Kelly, was to watch the revs when I pulled away.  There was so much power available, it would be easy to over rev the big six cylinder engine.  Heeding his words, I carefully applied the power and manoeuvred out into the traffic.  The power came in very smoothly indeed and there was a handful of it available.  I took a short loop behind the adjacent airport, taking about fifteen minutes to get back to the dealer and collect Wendy.  Once or twice on the quiet back road I dropped down to 4^th gear and hit the power.  The big bike took off like a rocket……….  Back at the shop, I collected Wendy.  Kelly readjusted the suspension for 2 up riding, then directed me toward a good route to try out the big bike.  I headed out into the traffic again and immediately noticed how manageable the big bike was with two up.  The low centre of gravity made it a joy to handle at low speed.

I quickly got onto the I84 eastbound and wound the power on.  The big bike hummed along effortlessly at 75/80mph.  A couple of exits later, I turned of and we headed into the hills and the twisties.  This would really show how she handled and I wasn’t disappointed.  The bike has so much power and balance; it was an absolute joy flicking in and out of the twisty mountain road.  We only rode a few miles, but I had already seen enough, this is a glorious machine, must get it on the Christmas pressie list!  All I needed was the taller saddle option and she would be perfect.  When I turned round to head back to the shop, I had a little play with some of the electrical controls.  BMW have created a revolving control ring on the left handlebar, which in conjunction with a menu switch adjacent to your left thumb, controls all of the electronic devices.  This includes suspension selection!

We rode back to the dealer and I almost managed a very tight slow speed turn with two up.  Only a car in my way prevented the manoeuvre.  The bike is so beautifully balanced, I had no doubts about making the turn, something I probably wouldn’t have tried on my old LT and will only do 1 up on my GS.  This new member of the BMW Motorad stable is a wonderful machine, just need the lottery to come up now!  I handed back the K1600 to Kelly and thanked him for the ride.  We then collected ‘Gertie’, headed back to the hotel, still with a huge smile on my face from the demo ride, and hugely impressed by the handling of big bike.

Back at the hotel we parked up the bikes – Wendy had ridden ‘Sydders’ down to the dealer and got some gas on the way back.  In the room, we quickly changed out of hot cumbersome bike gear and headed down to see the vendors who had turned up for this years event.  There were not as many as I had seen in previous years, but what they lacked in numbers, they made up for in the quality of products.  On the table of the first vendor, I saw miniature video cameras, perfect for mounting on bikes!  After last years trip to Alaska, I thought that a daily video diary or video from the riding would be a perfect accompaniment to the Blog.  We soon got chatting with Richard from RKA who showed us some pretty amazing bike video footage.  I was sold!  Wrap one I’ll take it!  So, another new toy for the bike and provided I can mount it easily enough, I will use it to take video on the return trip.  We will be riding a number of miles through mountain twisties, so it should make for some interesting viewing……….

After a wander through the vendors, we had a bite of lunch in the hotel.  While we were sat, an old friend from previous CCR’s dropped by and shared lunch with us.  Bruce is an amazing amateur photographer, who’s speciality is underwater photography.  He is especially known for one shot in particular.  Take a look at this link to see why: http://www.pr.com/press-release/122629.  Look at the foot of the article and go to Bruces own web site for more amazing photos.  After lunch we wandered back through the vendors, collecting the video camera, having decided on which model would do the job.  Then back to the room for a shower and freshen up for the evening event.

John 'Muns' & Laurie Munson

The first evening on CCR, we traditionally have a welcome reception.  This year we were lucky enough to have both the venue and the temperature to allow this to happen outside.  The hotel is a low level two-story complex, with a pool and quiet lawn area behind the accommodation.  There is also a pretty rose arbour adjacent to the pool area.  This was where the reception was to be held.  The arbour was where the staff laid out the buffet and tables were laid out on the lush grass.  We sat with friends we have known since our first CCR in Gatlinburg 2003.  Every year that we attend, we meet up with John & Laurie Munson and we just seem to take off from where we left of 12 months before.  That is one of the beauties of this event, catching up with old friends again, all with a common love of motorcycles.

The CCR organisation has three simple aims, to promote fellowship and friendship through motorcycling, to promote motorcycle education and training and finally, to leave a positive impact about motorcyclists in the communities in which we hold our reunion.  The last we achieve by making a charitable donation to a selected local charity.  This year, the board selected the ‘Ride for Joy’ charity.  Please take a look at this link, which will explain in far better detail what this wonderful organisation does for kids than I could manage: http://www.rideforjoy.org/.

We gather funds all week via one means or another and donate all the proceeds to the charity on our final gala night.  One of the biggest means of collecting funds is via the silent auction.  Prizes are donated and auctioned of.  Once again, all proceeds going directly to the charity.  As I explained in one of the earlier Blogs, we were given a donation on our way to CCR.  Please take a look at this link and the lovely White Bird Summit Lodge.  Terrie, who owns the Lodge, kindly donated two nights accommodation for a couple: http://www.whitebirdsummitlodge.com/.

With the reception nearly over, a night cap was called for, so we headed back to the bar and bumped into Jim and Mary once again.  We chatted over our respective antics during the day, then finally headed for bed.  That’s it for day 5 on the road and our first day at CCR, more to come later.  Nite nite fan and for all those on two wheels, keep the black stuff down!

Day 4 – White Bird Summit Lodge ID to Double Tree Hotel Boise ID

One more days riding we should be in Boise by mid afternoon and finally get out of riding gear for a little while, but for now, there was breakfast.  The switch to Pacific Time the day before had left us a little confused as to what was the actual time when we woke.  The clock said 7:30am, Wendy’s cell phone and the computer clock both read 8:30am.  Not a huge concern in it’s self, except that breakfast was booked for 8am!  I dragged on shorts and T shirt and went up to the kitchen/dining area and met our hostess Terrie preparing the meal.  It turns out she has exactly the same problems with cell phones as we were so close to the time zone change back to mountain time.  The important thing folk, was that we were not late for breakfast!

Wendy & I finished some packing and dragged on shorts and tops and headed up to breakfast, carrying some luggage.  Terri had laid out a wonderful breakfast for us of fresh fruit, yogurt, breads, bagels, fresh orange juice and coffee.  In addition, she had also baked a mixture of shredded potato, eggs, bell pepper topped with cheese!  Seriously tasty!  We sat and enjoyed breakfast, during which time, Wendy once again chatted with Terri about the charity-raising element of CCR.  Each year, CCR raises money during the reunion, to be donated to a local charity, which is generally a children’s charity.  Generally there are between 200 to 300 of us at CCR and raise something in the order of $25,000!  This year the recipient was to be the Ride for Joy charity, whose aim is to help severely disabled children by putting them on horse back.  My readers in the UK would recognise a similar charity there called Riding for the Disabled.  Our hostess Terri is a Mum & Grandma and she loved the sound of the charity.  So much so, that she donated a weekend for two at her lodge and offered to donate in perpetuity!  She provided us with a letter to hand to our Board of Directors, together with several brochures and a lovely pottery coffee mug with an image of the lodge emblazoned on the side.  We were both thrilled with Terri’s very generous donation.

Breakfast over, we headed back down to the room to finish packing, climb into riding gear, and head out to the bikes to commence loading.  A thunder storm the night before had cleared the air and the view over the canyon was spectacular.  Bikes loaded and back into full riding gear, we bade our farewells to Terri, each getting a friendly hug to send us on our way.  I led the way out on the short but steep crushed rock covered driveway, down onto the road.  There we turned right and with a final glance to our right, headed down the road to rejoin the I95 south to Boisie.  Before getting to the Highway, I made a short stop for photos out over the canyon.  The day before heat haze had obscured most of the view but today it was well worth a ‘photo opportunity’.  A few quick photos and we were on our way again, soon joining the I95 south bound.

The temperature was significantly cooler than the day before, which made the riding that much more enjoyable.  On joining the highway, we were straight into a long downhill decent.  There were lots of twists and turns, but ever downward all the same.  When we did eventually level off, we were back into a fabulous river valley, with the road following the twists and turns of the Salmon River.  Apparently, the State of Idaho has more rivers than any other State and has something in excess of 3000 miles of rivers.  So once again we found ourselves riding through a beautiful landscape of steep river valley and a narrow fast flowing mountain river to our right side.  Every now and then, the river would turn a foamy white as the fast flowing waters cascaded over and around boulders hidden just under the surface.  Our first and only stop for fuel was in the little town of Riggins, where we also left the Salmon River.

Just out of Riggins, the steep walls of the river valley, gave way to wide fertile rangeland.  There were hills out to the left and right, but this was now wide flat farmland.  We headed on south to a major road junction at New Meadows, where I had a real ‘brain fart’ moment!  Faced with a left or right decision and the road we wanted to the left, I ended up sitting squarely in the middle of the junction!!  Like I said, ‘brain fart’!  Wendy pulled up along side on my left looking a little perplexed; after all, I was the one with GPS!  I quickly saw my error and turned Gertie sharp left, over the junction and headed of toward the town of McCall.  Almost immediately we found ourselves amongst the ‘twisties and great fun it was at that.  Although the posted speed limits were quite slow – in some cases 45mph – for some of the bends we encountered that was quite fast enough.

We rode into McCall we agreed that we should have a rest break, get something to drink and get my butt out of the saddle!  The BMW GS is a wonderful bike to ride and I invested in an after market saddle for the additional comfort and support.  However, now into our fourth day in the saddle, I’ll admit it, my butt was sore!  The town of McCall sits on the edge of another large lake and has become something of a weekend retreat for the well healed of Boise.  We rode along the main street into McCall, with beautiful houses to our left, sitting right on the waters edge.  At what looked like the end of town, the road turned sharp right and within yards we spotted a café sitting on the left side of the road with parking slots on the right side of the road – time to stop!

The café had several tables and chairs sitting outside and on a day like today, that was perfect.  The building and adjacent trees offered some shade, so we elected to stay outside.  My other reason was to keep an eye on the bikes parked the other side of the street.  We looked at the menu and Wendy spotted fresh fruit milkshakes.  We settled on two black raspberry shakes and some onion rings to share.  The milkshakes were amazing!  A straw would have been superfluous with these drinks.  You would have required an industrial pump to raise this thick creamy shake.  Sucking on a straw would only have resulted in our cheeks caving in, so the long spoon was perfect.  This was one of the most amazing milkshakes I have ever tried, a meal in a cup!  Suitably refreshed, we dragged our jackets back on and headed for the bikes.  Just a little over 100 miles to ride now.

Out of McCall and out onto the highway again, we were riding through more open range in rolling country.  Farms and herds of Black Angus cattle dotted the landscape.  I thought we were done with the deeply ravined valleys and rushing rivers.  Then once we had ridden through the town of Cascade, we were back into the ‘twisties’ again.  This time it was the Little Salmon River rushing downhill to our right.  In Cascade I had seen a couple of companies offering river rafting of kayaking and I soon found out why.  Long stretches of white water appeared in the river, followed by areas of calm flowing water.  Then the water would be squeezed through a narrow channel and over hidden boulders and the crazy rushing water was of again.  By now, we had ridden by such a lot of this sort of ‘riverscape’, you would have thought we would get bored of it.  Every bend, every rock created a new picture, so it never ever got boring.

About 30 miles from Boise and still following the wild Little Salmon River, I had to take another break for a leg stretch.  We had just emerged from a fun series of bends and I spotted a pull out on the right side of the road, on the edge of a steep river bank.  We pulled over safely to the edge, in order to keep out of the way of passing traffic and eased ourselves off the bikes.  We had been stood for a little while, taken a few more photo’s, when Wendy noticed something floating down stream.  Although there were no rapids in sight, there were some further upstream.  At first we thought it was an empty life jacket or something similar.  As it got closer, I saw it was an elderly (white haired at least) man wearing a life jacket and clutching a Kayak paddle in his left hand.  As he drew closer, we saw he was edging toward the far riverbank.  After a little struggle, he successfully made the bank.

As we watched his progress, I looked up stream, wondering if there shouldn’t be a canoe of some sort following him.  Sure enough, about 200m upstream there was a red inflatable Kayak floating downstream with no paddler on board.  As it got closer, a saw a second man, hanging onto the side of the Kayak with his right hand and clutching his paddle with his left.  As he drew closer to the first guy who came down, he shoved the Kayak at his colleague so it could be rescued.  Now the second guy struggled to make the bank.  A few seconds later however, he too made the safety of the bank.  As they lay back catching their breath, one of them looked up and over to where we were stood and waved.  I took that to mean he was saying, ‘we are ok’……….., I waved back to acknowledge them and we watched as they got back into the Kayak and proceeded down stream, straight into another area of white water.  Fortunately their technique held up and they shot the rapids and headed downstream and out of sight.  Drama over, we got back on the bikes and continued to Boise.

It is never fun arriving in a strange town, especially during the afternoon peak traffic flow.  As I generally do, I had checked our destination on Google Maps and had a good luck at what to expect as we approached the hotel.  It all appeared as expected on Google Maps.  With a combination of GPS and pictures on Google Maps, we made the hotel with no drama.  We were both hot and tired, and glad to finally be at our destination.  We soon checked in and rode the bikes round the side of the hotel to park near a convenient entrance for our room.  As we were staying for a few days, Wendy had booked us into a junior suite, which is very roomy.  There is plenty of room to stretch out over the next few days.  We soon unpacked, showered and went to explore.

Having orientated ourselves, found out where the various meeting rooms were and where registration would take place on Tuesday morning, we headed for refreshments!  Neither of us wanted a full meal, so we elected for a snack on the bar and a couple of drinks to help unwind.  Just before our food was brought to us, we were joined by another couple.  Jim and Mary had ridden in from Seattle, Washington and this evening they were going out to eat with Mary’s sister who lives in Boise.  Until they headed out, we sat and chatted – a really lovely couple.  We remained in the bar a little while longer, before heading back to the sanctuary of the room.  It was bed for Wendy and me to the keyboard trying to catch up on my Blog.  And I’m still a day behind!  That’s me done folk, 11:30pm and another day at the CCR to come, so I am heading for my bed.  Nite nite one and all and for those brothers and sisters on two wheels, keep the black stuff down!

Day 3 – Bonners Ferry ID to White Bird Summit Lodge ID

We woke fairly early in the morning, our body ‘time clocks’ still not quite used to the additional hour we had gained by moving into another time zone.  I looked out through the curtains onto the river and the whole landscape was bathed in a morning heat haze – oh good!!  With clear blue skies, that did not bode well.  We decided rather than hunt round town for a diner, we would have breakfast in the room – very nice too.  We had already packed before breakfast had arrived.  Once we had finished our meal, we climbed into riding gear and made our way down to the hotel lobby.  While Wendy checked out, I got the bags out to the bikes and started loading ‘Gertie’ for the days ride.

First stop was just a couple of miles from the hotel to top both bikes up with fuel.  The owners manuals for both machines, states a minimum RON rating for the fuel of 95.  However, as Canada and the US don’t use this octane rating at the gas pumps, we had to carry out some Internet research before we set off from the hotel.  It turns out that we both require a Super Regular rated at 91.  Happy now that we had got the right fuel, both bikes were topped up and off we set.  We were on our way by about 9:30am, the roads were quiet for the time being, but it was already 23.5’C and rising!

The first town of any note that we encountered was Sandpoint.  Major road works were being carried out on the town bypass and the diversion took us on a complete tour of the little town.  When we were eventually ‘spat’ out back onto the highway, we were at the start of a long causeway bridge crossing the lake that the town nestled against.  The bridge afforded a great view out over the lake.  All sides of which were tree covered right down to the waters edge.  We looked out in envy at the people enjoying a lovely day out on the cooling waters.  It was now in the high 20’s and still rising!  Clear of the road works on the bridge, the road cleared a little allowing us to make up a little time.

We had been riding for a couple of hours or so, when we came up upon a small town with a First Nations trading post, aptly named ‘Warpath’.  Neither of us needed fuel, but we certainly needed water, the bathroom and a chance to stretch our legs.  Several Harley riders came into Warpath while we were there.  Not one wore much in the name of protective riding gear.  The State of Idaho does not legislate the use of helmets, and none of the riders wore one.  I thought how wonderful and free that must feel and today, how much cooler it must be.  Then I imagined hitting some loose gravel or any form of accident, and how stupidly vulnerable these riders were.  One small tumble and a head striking asphalt – doesn’t bear thinking about.  That thought brought me back to my senses and I happily pulled on my armoured jacket and my helmet.

On our way south, the countryside had been gradually changing around us.  Yesterday afternoon we had seen the last of the Rocky Mountains.  We had started the day amongst snow capped, glacier encrusted craggy peaks.  As we rode closer to the border, the snow line was completely gone and the peaks less craggy.  Neither were they so close.  Now they were five to ten miles out to left or right, slowly receding away.  Like a travelling companion who can only go so far with you, then must head for home, so the Rockies were heading home and leaving us.

The mountains were replaced by tree-covered hills.  Although the highway still snaked it’s way between the hills, the road was nowhere near as dramatic or as technical to ride.  Still fun, but mountain ‘twisties’ are in a league of their own as far as the ‘fun factor’ goes for a biker.  This hilly scenery continued past Bonners Ferry until about Sandpoint.  The end of the big lakes in the area, also marked the end of the hilly, tree covered countryside and the start of a rolling prairie landscape.  A vast area of gently rolling hills, like a great golden ocean swell.  I was thinking the crops must be ready for harvesting, when I saw the first of several harvesters busy in the fields.  We rode in through the swaying sea of gold, toward Lewiston.

We had been riding at a ‘fair pace’ approaching Lewiston and had to reduce our speed as we approached a steep decent.  Quite how steep we were shortly to find out.  The road sign indicated an 8% grade, so I geared down in order to control the decent speed.  As we rounded a descending left hand bend we got an amazing view of Lewiston, some 500’/600’ below us in the Clearwater River valley.  It was a shame about the heat haze; it would have made an amazing photo opportunity.  As it was, we rejoined the highway and headed the 3 miles into Lewiston and a stop for gas for ‘Sydders’ and an ice cream and more water for us.  As I brought the bike to a halt at the gas station, the OAT gauge was reading 41.5’C – that is seriously hot folk!!

From Lewiston to our night stop at the White Bird Summit Lodge, was about 78 miles.  It was quite far enough in this blistering heat.  The first part of the ride took us along the Clearwater River which gave us some respite from the intense heat.  As the road snaked along the valley, we got into more 'twisties'.  Unfortunately, a number of bridges were under repair, which curtailed a lot of the fun.  That and being stuck behind a large semi.  I waited for a clear bit of road, dropped down a gear and shot past the truck.  Unfortunately Wendy was hanging back a little too far and missed the same opportunity.  However just a few miles down the road, she saw a suitable passing opportunity and soon caught up with me again.  A few more miles of fun in the valley, then we were back onto the prairie heading to Grangeville, which was just 8 miles from our night stopstop.  We were both tired and wanted to get this days riding over and I must admit I was being a little heavy on the ole right hand.  As it turns out, so did the local Sheriff!

We came up over a slight rise and I was clocking about 75mph on a road limited to 65mph.  At the last minute I saw lights on top of a car pointing toward us.  Any chance that he may not have seen us went out of the window as he hit the Red & Blues and proceeded to turn the cruiser round.  I immediately headed for what there was of a shoulder, stopped, turned off the bike and got my license & documents ready for the Sherriff.  Firstly he stopped at Wendy and told her she wasn’t going as fast as me!  On reaching my side, he looked at my speedo and observed that it was in km.  I agreed and listened intently as he provided me with a conversion table – kph to mph.  Then he took my license to perform a check.  After a while he returned and said we were lucky this time, just a warning!  However, he was still concerned that I was able to adhere to the posted limits while reading kph on my speedo.  He then kindly reproduced his table for me on a page from his note pad and waited for us to rejoin the highway.  Of course I did not offer that my GPS was currently calibrated to mph for our time in the US………..  Time to take the break and head out of Dodge!!

A few miles down the road and we turned off of Highway 95, for the short trip to the lodge.  We were made very welcome and told once we had showered and settled in, to come and help ourselves to a beer from the fridge.  Shame not to really!  After the beer Wendy & I wandered about the place and were called back in for dinner at 6pm.  Although we are the only guests staying overnight, there had been a party of six who had been at the Lodge riding out on some of the horses.  As it turned out, three of the party were Brits and we all had a good ‘natter’ over a dinner of fresh salmon cooked on the grill – beautiful.

As is the norm it seems, I am finishing off my writing for the day and Wendy is already bashing out the zzzzzzzz’s.  So fan, tis now time for me to get some sleep before one more day in the pressure cooker!  Sleep tight one & all and for our fellow bikes, ride safe and keep the black stuff down.

Day 2 - Num-Ti-Jar Lodge to Bonners Ferry ID

Well dinner at the Lodge was good, washed down with a very palatable bottle of wine.  It was good, but not quite as good as we had hoped it would be and the service was a little ‘quirky’.  The young guy who served us from time to time, was knowledgeable and friendly, easily engaging us in conversation.  The girl, was like a tornado on legs!  You felt that she had to get out certain phrased between courses, that’s what she had been taught.  I didn’t think she was going to do well, when she launched our dinner plates at the table.  They landed with a resounding thud and she was gone.  On one of her ‘sorties’ by our table, she managed a ‘how is the steak’?  Our answer was lost as he disappeared in a cloud of dust toward the kitchen.  We had decided that after our dinner we would sit and relax with a Cognac, well that was the plan.  After a frantic search of the liqueur shelf, our serving girl emerged triumphant with the sole bottle of cognac.  “Here it is”, she announced triumphantly with an attempted pronunciation of Courvoisier.  “Would you like that in a snifter”, she asked us?  We said yes please……..  After several minutes searching our girl returned to advise us that only one ‘snifter’ could be found!  Would I like my cognac in a tumbler???  You would have been proud of me fan, I was so so restrained.  Suffice to say Wendy had Cognac from a Port glass, I elected for a single malt which our girl was about to pour over ice……!  Ahh well, it gave us a giggle or two.

The Lodge is one of these quirky establishments that survive because they are different and because of location.  As I said last night, the location was stunning and for the views alone, was worth every cent.  I’m glad I committed those words to print before getting to bed!  I swear someone hid the bed and left us with a king sized ironing board!  I tossed and turned so many times during the night trying to get comfortable, I swear I have yet to see a chicken on a spit roast manage as many rotations as I achieved.  As I suffer from sleep apnea, I need a CPAP machine to provide positive air pressure while I sleep.  The electrical outlet by the bed was so loose that the electrical cord to the CPAP kept falling out during the night.  So now I was rotating like a chicken on a spit and every now and then woke gasping for air as the machine had stopped working!  It was almost blessed relief when it was time to get up and get going again. 

We had decided to pass on breakfast at the lodge as we were still full from dinner the night before and their price was a little steep for continental breakfast.  Lake Louise was only 30 km down the road and we both needed gas, so decided to get fuel and food at the same stop.  We were down at the bikes before 9am and set about loading bags back onto the bikes.  The previous evening we had elected to stow our jackets into the panniers on the bikes.  This saved us having to carry even more gear up 3 flights of rickety stairs.  When we got the jackets out, we almost fell about laughing!  Both of our riding suits are made by BMW and contain several pieces of memory foam armour – a large back piece elbows and shoulders. 

The pieces are quite rigid, but once a little heat is applied, they mould to the body.  When we took the jackets off, the armour was quite supple allowing us to fold the jackets with ease and stow then in the panniers.  However, as night time temperatures were quite cool, the armour had ‘solidified’ in the form in which it has been left.  In my case, the armour had been folded in half!  I forced it open like a giant clam, but as soon as I released it, it closed up again!  Shoulder and elbow pieces were also clam like making it almost impossible to don the jackets.  In the end we  forced the armour apart over a large rock, much like panel beating, then quickly put the jackets on before they could curl up again.  The result was two bikers looking every bit like Quasimodo!  Fortunately by the time we reached Lake Louise, we had generated sufficient body heat for the armour to relax into it’s proper shape.  Needless to say we won’t do that again!!

Well, how do you follow that much fun?  The ride down the valley to Lake Louise didn’t take long and the cool morning air helped wake us up.  The trip computer on the ‘Beemer’ read 9.5’C and I had no reason to disbelieve it!  First stop was gas, then into a grill for some breakfast.  A good meal would see us through until dinner in the evening with stops only for more gas for ‘Sydders’, water and bathrooms.  After breakfast, we headed back out onto highway 1, the Trans Canada Highway.  Everything we had ridden so far, we had covered several times in the past, so although the scenery was stunning, the riding was routine.  A few miles down the road, we left Highway 1 and turned south onto Highway 93 and what a great road that proved to be.  Right from the start there were big generous biker friendly bends sweeping down the valley, this was more like it.  The speed limit is 90kph/56mph, but I was soon edging that up a bit at a time as we curved in and out of the beautiful bends.  The scenery was breathtaking but somehow it seems that when we cross into British Columbia, it is that much more staggering.  Perhaps it is because we don’t see the scenery as often as we do in Alberta, but my word, it is breathtaking.  The mountains see craggier, seem to reach higher into the sky, stretching out for the clouds.  Round every bend there was another view more jaw dropping than the last. 

Then a river appeared on our right, following the road.  It was one of those wide, quite shallow boulder strewn mountain rivers that crash downhill.  The water was a wonderful ice blue with white ‘horses’ where ever it rushed over hidden boulders.  It could be quite mesmerising watching this raw beauty and I had to shake myself a few times and remind myself, I too was rushing downhill round twists and turns, so I best concentrate!  I also had to remember that I had a riding partner and not to get too distracted with my own fun.  I need not have worried!  I glanced into my mirrors during one ‘spirited’ section of corners and there was Wendy and ‘Sydders’ flying through the corners on a similar line to me.  Not once did I feel the need to ‘back off’ to allow her to catch up, she was doing just fine.  Better than fine actually, she was riding very well indeed.  At one stage as we joined the twisty 93, we were joined by another bike.  He sat behind Wendy at a reasonable distance, but obviously sticking with us.  Once we got into the ‘interesting stuff’, we left him way behind us – I think it was a Harley……………!!

The real twisty stuff slowly gave way to more gentle bends and we were over the mountain.  We still had a long way to go in the mountain valleys, but the exciting stuff was behind us  - for now!  The sheer valley sides opened up a little now and the riding became more relaxed.  As we approached Radium and the famous hot springs, the valley nipped in again and at the hot springs we rode between very narrow valley walls, reducing the road to two narrow lanes.  We rode on through Radium and on to a short road side stop just outside Invermere.  Here the road clung to the left side of a very wide valley and the view point we stopped at gave us a great view into and over the wide fertile valley floor.

We had started the day at a cool 9.5’C and I had watched the temperature rise as the day wore on.  Not that I needed a temperature gauge to tell me I was baking in my bike suit.  Fortunately there are several zipped vents in our suits and at a gas stop in Cranbrook, every one  of the vents was opened trying to get some air flow going.  By the time we reached the US border crossing at Kingsgate, it was a stifling 35.5”C!  As it was we both had to go into the US customs office to complete visa waver forms.  It was blessed relief to get out of the heat and into an air-conditioned office.  We weren’t detained too long and were soon on our way.  By now the heat was getting to Wendy and she was looking very hot and bothered.  Fortunately we were on the last leg of the days riding and about 26 miles to Bonners Ferry for our night stop.

As we rode over the Kootenai River and into Bonners Ferry, Wendy called out over the radio telling me where the hotel was.  She had seen the Best Western sign as we came over the bridge.  I hadn’t seen it, so I told her to come past and take the lead.  As she did so, I too saw the hotel and fell in behind Wendy to ride into the hotel car park.  Over the years we had discovered that most hotels are quite happy for bikes to leave their machines sitting under the portico outside the main entrance.  This is really reassuring as this area always has security cameras watching and a front desk manned 24/7.  When we pulled up under the portico, there ahead of us was another red Spyder.  It was as if Wendy had found another family member…….  The other Spyder also managed to feature on some photo’s we took at the end of the day and in one specifically for the two Spyders, leaving poor ‘Gertie’ out completely!

And so day 2 on the road was coming to a close.  We hijacked a baggage trolley from the entrance and unloaded the bikes – this included our jackets!  Checked in, we were soon in our room with a lovely view out over the river.  After dinner, I fell into the routine of downloading the days photo’s and getting today’s offering written and yesterdays Blog posted.  Now if you forgive me fan, I’m off to bed.  I hope you have enjoyed the trip so far, please tune in again to follow our antics over the next few days.  Nite nite then and for all our fellow bikes, ride safe and keep the black stuff down.

Day 1 – Stony Plain to Num-Ti-Jar Lodge.

Ok fan, here we go again, you know the format by now.  We set off on a bike trip, take photo’s along the way and I write a little monologue in the evening posting onto the Blog for your delectation.  Not today unfortunately, well, not the posting bit anyway.  As the title suggests, we have set off from Stony Plain, and spending night 1 at the very quaint Num-Ti-Jar Lodge.  Unfortunately, the lodge boasts many facilities, but modern internet is not one of them!  So fan, I will write the Blog and keep it safe until tomorrow night when we should be safely ensconced in a Best Western down in the US of A.  That is tomorrow, lets deal with today shall we.

All of our packing was completed on Thursday afternoon; we even managed to get the bikes loaded and ready for the road.  We both looked at our meagre pile of luggage to be stowed on the bikes, there seemed so much less than previous trips.  We went through the list of clothing that was needed, biking gear and ‘civvies’.  Nope, nothing missing.  All we could put it down to was a lack of bulky bike suite liners.  The weather forecast for the next week, especially where we are headed looks quite hot, so not much need for bulky jackets and Gortex liners – I hope!!  We were planning on a 9am departure on Friday, so not even any great rush to get to bed.  A nice leisurely start to the trip.

We got up Friday morning and the weather looked pretty perfect riding weather.  White puffy clouds bobbed about in a beautiful blue sky.  The temperature was about 16’C, but we knew that it would get warmer as the day progressed.  First things first, feed the dogs!  Toby always seems to know we are about to head off and leave him, but Lucy just wants her breakfast!  Dogs sorted, we climbed into bike gear.  I have only ever ridden once without suitable protection and paid the price.  A nice round scar still sits on my left shoulder, a reminder of when I dumped a bike while wearing only a rugby shirt!  Now we both wear jacket and pants that are high tech garments, designed to protect the wearer not only from the elements, but also from a ‘spill’, should one occur.  Once we were suitably ‘booted and spurred’ we got the bikes out of the garage, put on helmets and gloves, plugged helmets into the bike to bike radios and with the GPS set up, we were ready for the off.  Not that the first leg was going to be that challenging, or long!!

With a house move imminent, food stocks in the ole ‘Hacienda’ are pretty depleted, not even enough for a humble bowl of ‘soggies’ before the off.  Oh well, guess we’ll just have to pay ‘Micky D’ a visit!  The MacD’s in Stony is near completing a massive refurbishment and what a transformation.  It looks more like a large Starbucks than the humble burger joint.  So for the first and probably the last time this trip, Wendy led the way from home to Stony – 10km……..  Ahhh well fan, tis a start!  Fed and watered, we climbed back onto the bikes, but not after I gave another sales pitch about the Spyder, to a passing admirer in a truck.  Wendy usually does this bit, but the call of the bathroom was too strong after a coffee and about two and half hours of riding ahead.

Our first night stop was to be the Num-Ti-Jar Lodge at the head of Bow Lake in the Rocky Mountains.  We have passed the lodge on previous bike trips and it always looked wonderful sat on the edge of the lake.  So this trip we thought we would actually stop over and take a closer look at this quirky but beautiful log built lodge.  The ride down to the Lodge was uneventful; we have ridden this route on a number of occasions now, so there were no surprises.  First stop as usual was at Rocky Mountain House, by this time we had been riding for about two and half hours.  Wendy needed gas for ‘Sydders’ and we both needed water as the day was heating up.  With ‘Sydders’ full of gas again, we popped over the highway to ‘Tims’ for a bottle of water and a cookie!  After a short break, we are back on the bikes heading into the Rockies.

The riding conditions remained pretty perfect, the sky became a little bluer and the temperature climbed to about 23’C – very pleasant.  We made the Icefields Parkway in good time and made a brief stop at a rest area as we joined the north south highway.  It doesn’t matter how many times I have driven or ridden this stretch of road, the sheer majestic beauty of the huge mountains around you always leaves me speechless.  Even more spell binding, are the icefields high in the mountaintops that give the road its name.  It is difficult to ride down the twisting highway and not risk the odd long glance up to a huge hanging ice field/glacier.  As I sit writing this piece near the window of our room, I have a wonderful view down the blue waters of Bow Lake and I can see three massive glaciers.  What ever it costs to stay at this lodge, this one view makes it worth every red cent.

We pulled into the Lodge a little before 3pm having made good 
time.  Once checked in, we threw on shorts and T’s and headed out to explore.  The lakeshore is about 100m from the Lodge, so we didn’t have to venture too far!  Out of the lodge, we didn’t know where to look first for wonderful pictures, as the shore was only a few steps away so down to the waters edge we walked.  The narrow beach was not sand, but rather a fine gravel.  You certainly needed something on your feet or it would have been quite uncomfortable walking.  It was a glorious sunny afternoon, but the waters of the lake were very cold as I found out when Wendy suggested I go stand in the water for a photo………..!  There was a lovely cooling onshore breeze coming down off the mountains.  The result was to create small breakers on the lake surface.  Listening to water is always calming, but listening to the gentle break of the swell onto the shore and the gentle ‘hiss’ of the gravel was very tranquil.

After a while on the shore line, we headed back to the sanctuary of the room.  It is time for showers, then head down to dinner at 7pm.  The menu in the restaurant is quite limited, but then I don’t suppose they have too many staying here at a time.  However, with a four-course meal that includes seared tender loin of Bison for a starter, I think dinner should be pretty damned good!

Oh yes, Num-Ti-Jar!  Did you wonder if I would ever tell you what it meant fan?  I asked at the front desk as soon as we arrived.  It is pronounced ‘Num teejjar’ and is a First Nations word for a Pine Martin!  There you go fan, just for you!

That’s it then folk, time to get scrubbed and ready to savour dinner.  Hopefully our stop tomorrow night will have Internet, then I will get the Blog on the go and download some of the photos.  Bye for now then and to all our friends on two wheels, ride safe and keep the black stuff down.